Reticella and Punto in Aria are closely related needlelaces from Italy. The geometric designs are easily recognizable to those who see these laces. Reticellas were made in abundance from the late 1400's to the early 1800's. They start with a fabric from which threads were cut and withdrawn. The remaining threads form a framework upon which additional threads were stitched and woven to form elaborate patterns. The original technique of Reticella marked the transition between fabrics made lacy by cutting out and withdrawing threads, and lac,e made stitch by a stitch without a substructure. The early Reticella work has the threads withdrawn in only one direction. Later work finds threads being drawn-out in both directions. Eventually so many threads were drawn-out that the foundation became very flimsy and lace makers devised a new framework without even bothering to use the original foundation fabric. This was to be known as Punto in Aria, or "In the air".

On the threads that remained, needle weaving is done using the buttonhole stitch to form the designs. Most of the designs were worked around the gridwork of squares with diagonal crossings. Early work is very geometric and later wheels were introduced and the characteristic triangles with inside ornaments of great beauty. As finer laces were introduced Reticella Lace's popularity fell into decline but was revived when larger items like tablecloths, were Reticella was often combined with embroidered linen. An arrangement of alternating squares of cut work, embroidery and Reticella were used to create wonderful effects. 

Punto in Aria retains many of the characteristics of Reticella but also is able to go beyond the geometric framework. The lace makers devised a linen and parchment base for their work. This base consisted of two or three layers of fabric with the parchment pattern on top. The layers with then basted together. The pattern was then layed over with a gimp which was basted down through the pattern and layers of support fabric. When the lace was finished the basting stitches were cut between the layers thus leaving only the Lace.

Released from the constraints of the warp and weft design of Reticella, the ground threads could be curved and doubled in any direction the designer chose. The outlines threads were based on to the parchment pattern, usually in pairs. These threads follow the contours of the motif and were couched into position through pricked holes in the parchment. Some of the most popular designs seen in Punto in Aria include human figures, animals, boats, birds, urns, jewels, seaweed, scenes from the Bible, double headed the Eagles, dragons, scrolls and flowers. But the same basic buttonhole stitch was used to cover the outline stitches as in Reticella.
Another way of making this lace was done over a frame. These frames are unusual in this country where the fabric foundation is more common due to the freedom of design but when a long edging is needed the frames are very useful.

This picture shows a frame for making Punto in Aria. It is very unusual to find one of these frames. You will notice that the stitches on the top show the worked lace, and on the bottom, the work in progress.