Chemical Lace (sometimes referred to as Schiffli Lace) is
a form of
machine-made
lace. This method of
lace-making is done by
embroidering a pattern on a sacrificial
fabric
that has been chemically treated so as to disintegrate after the pattern
has been created.
This embroidery is typically done on a multi-head or multi-needle
Schiffli
machine or
loom that has a very large, continuous and overlapping embroidery
field. The lace pattern is designed such that the embroidery thread
creates an interlocking series of
threads that
will, in essence, become a "stand alone" piece of lace.
After the embroidery is completed the embroidered fabric is immersed in
a
solution that will not harm the embroidery thread but completely
dissolves the sacrificial fabric leaving just the lace.
Utilizing these large machines and this technique a single piece of
lace could be, using today's
state-of-the-art machines, over 60" wide by 15yards long. In practice,
this system is used to produce many smaller items with one setup.
The original composition of the disintegrating "bath" was not very
friendly to the
environment and has all but ceased to exist in
developed countries. However, the practice is still being used to
create laces in
third world countries. Since the original development of chemical
lace, other methods have been developed beyond the chemical washing method
described above. This includes the use of base fabrics that are
water
soluble or that disintegrate under heat. These methods are generally
too expensive or impractical for large-scale production. These are
typically used by smaller embroidery facilities specializing in targeted
markets, home-based businesses, or hobbyists.
