There has been some interest on winding bobbins lately and I thought IKieth Enevoldsen's Lego Bobbin WinderWinding Bobbins with a String
by Alice Howell in OregonTake a string about 1-1/2 yards long and attach each end to something sturdy
( like the 2 arms of a recliner) and pin the string to each one. Two sturdy chairs work, or one chair and a table leg, etc. The string should be fairly taut, but have some give in it. A movable chair or a pin allows adjustment to be easily made to the tautness of the string. Start the thread on the bobbin, winding a few times until it is attached.Holding the bobbin with the head away from you, reach across the string and tuck the body of the bobbin under the string. Then twist the end of the bobbin up, over and again under the string while holding on to the head. You should end up with a loop of the string going around the middle of the bobbin, the tail pointed at you, and the head away from you. This method will work with either midlands or continental bobbins because the tail of the bobbin hangs loose. Realize the midlands, with spangles, may feel a bit weird as you proceed, but can easily be done.
The string should be about 1/3 of the way from the threaded section to the tail of the bobbin. The design of the bobbin may determine where the string lies best. Hold the bobbin with your right hand by putting two fingers on each side of the string and bending your fingers under the bobbin-sort of a cradle. Your left hand will hold the winding thread parallel with the string. I like to have a yard or so of thread unwound from the spool so it can flow freely. By unwinding the thread a yard at a time, I can keep count on how much thread is going on the bobbin. With your right hand cupped loosely under the bobbin, push the bobbin to the left across the string. The loop around the bobbin will make the bobbin spin, and the thread will wind around the bobbin.
Be aware that the thread may not wind up in very neat, precise rows, but with practice you can control it to some extent. When you reach the left side of the string, put your right thumb on the bobbin and hold it firmly in the right hand. Pull the bobbin back to the right side of the string without letting it turn. The string will slide around the bobbin. When back to the right side, release your thumb and again hold the bobbin loosely with your fingers, and push it back across the string. (I guess that I take about 10 seconds a yard, and do about 3 passes across the string per yard.)
When the bobbin has enough thread on it, remove from the string and tie your half hitch.The second bobbin of a pair may be a bit trickier. You have to unwind the total amount of thread needed, and start from the cut end. If you are needing only 1-2-3 yards, it is not much of a problem. If you need many yards, you need to develop a system of laying out the unwound yards in a manner that will allow the thread to wind freely without tangling. (I have wound up to 14 yards successfully.) A bit of caution on midlands bobbins. The bobbins that have a spiral design along the body of the bobbin may be more difficult to wind. The winding string tends to catch in the spiral, and travel to the tail end. The string has to be repositioned frequently. Also I have found a few bobbins that have such a smooth, slick finish that the string can't get traction on them. Glass bobbins also are slick to wind. However, 95 percent of my midlands can be wound easily in this manner.
Continentals are very easy. If the string breaks, use another piece-very inexpensive to replace.
Just a note about winding bobbins with the string method. Thank you for the
description, (sorry I cannot remember who posted it) I was origninally
taught a variation on that method. Instad of having the string fixed across
in front of you, one end was anchored and the other end attached to your own
belt or waist band. This means that you can constantly monitor the tension
on the string and keep things tight just by moving your body slightly. I
find that continental, (no spangles) bobbins are quite good to wind in this
way, but the spangles on Midlands bobbins upset the balance and it is almost
impossible to wind smoothly. Much quicker to just wind with the hand. If you
are experimenting with this method though, start with a Bruges style bobbin.
Jean, in Cleveland, U.K.,
I would like to disagree with a few of you though. I use this method all
the time with spangled bobbins and have no problems. Yes, the spangles do
flop around a little but so what? The only bobbins I have been unable to
use this on are spiral cut one or ones with very little smooth/tubular bits.
Of course, continental bobbins are a easy to do.I only use the "sting method" when I have quite a few bobbins to wind. It
takes me a few minutes to find a piece of thick enough thread/string and
pin it, remember which way to loop the string etc... Winding the bobbins is
really quite fast once you get the hang of it. The one thing I have had to
relax about is perfectly neat thread on my bobbins. If you want every piece
of thread to neatly lie next to the previous loop this method is not for you
(or at least you would loose any speed advantage over doing it by hand). If
you think about it, it really doesn't matter if the bobbin is perfectly neat
so long as the thread is on the proper bit, the tread is on smoothly (no
loops etc.) and there are no problems with the slip knots. The lack of
neatness of my bobbins has never affected the lace making. (I think of this
as part of my "go with the flow" and relax about things campaign <g>).I want to add a few comments of my own about the process and what I have
found.-To recap, what you do is cradle the bobbin in your fingers and let the
looped string spin the bobbin as you the bobbin up the thread. As long as
the looped string is taut it will grip the bobbin and turn it. Then you
loosen the string a little and slide the bobbin back down without spinning
it (the loosened thread no longer grips the bobbin). And start again as
needed-try this with a bobbin and string (but no thread) (or if you are at work,
you can try it with a pen and any sting or ribbon <g>)-the way the string loops around the bobbin changes the direction the bobbin
spins. As always with winding bobbins, consistency is the important thing.
I always have to check which way to wrap the string when I wind the first
bobbin (no memory <g>)-the complicated bit for me is keeping the lace thread under some tension as
you wind the bobbin. This is necessary because without any tension you have
no control over where the thread goes (you tilt the bobbin to aim the
thread). I do this a little differently than Jeannette. I usually put 2-3
meters of thread on my bobbins at a time. I unwind the thread from the
spool and use a rubber band around the spool to keep it from unwinding any
more. I then use the spool as a weight to keep the thread taught. I loop
the thread over the hand that is keeping the string taut but do not hold it
with that hand. The spool swings below rising up as the thread gets wound
on the bobbin (think of a crane lifting something). If you want more thread
on the bobbin repeat as necessary. The reason I like this method is that I
find that the string does (occasionally) not grip perfectly. When I was
holding the thread in my hand to keep the tension I was constantly having to
reposition the thread because there wasn't sufficient tension. Using this
method it is automatic (it does take a little getting used to).-To wind the second bobbin in the pair, wind off enough thread and cut it
off the spool. Anchor the thread on the first bobbin as if you were going
to make lace immediately. Now do exactly the same thing but the full bobbin
will be the weight at the end of the thread. Note that I never do two full
bobbins since I tend to make small bits of lace but you should easily be
able to get 3 meters on this second bobbin (more by standing up).
Hope this helps and thanks so much to Jeannette for posting the instructions
(and to Sue for reposting them). Like Sue, this method works so well for me
that I don't have a winder (and I don't think I will get one anytime soon).Nicole
in Egham near London
winding bobbins---
would pass on a tip that a sweet little old lacing lady taught me - how to
wind bobbins using a piece of string. Size 10 works well. Cut a piece
about 12-14 inches long. Tie a knot at one end and stick a pin through the
knot. You can pin the string to your pant leg (at the knee) or pin it onto
the far edge of the pillow on your lap. Start winding the thread (your
lace thread) onto the bobbin until it will stay (usually only a couple
wraps). Then twist the size 10 thread (pinned to your pillow) once around
the middle of your bobbin. Hold the bobbin in your right hand - palm down
with the bobbin loosely grasped in the downward curl of your fingers and
the heavy thread running out between the fingers of your right hand. The
shaft (where your winding the thread onto your bobbin) should be pointing
to your left clear of your right pointer finger. Your left hand will be
holding the end of the size 10 thread (straight down against your stomach)
and the thread you will be winding onto your bobbin. Then it's just a
simple up and down motion - adjusting the tension on the size 10 thread as
you move the bobbin - rolling it as you pull it toward you and sliding the
bobbin on the thread as you push it away from you. Try this with an empty
bobbin till you get the hang of it. I have seen similar instructions in
The Bobbin Lace Manual by Stott (if I remember right) they show the size 10
thread wrapped differently but the principle was the same. This method is
quick and easy and my hands don't bother me anymore from winding bobbins.
I hope my instructions aren't totally confusing - if anyone is interested I
could try to draw it out for you. Let me know .JoAnn - A tatter for 17 years trying to learn bobbin lace
from Custer, SD - where the buffalo roam (in my front yard!!)