Building a Lace Stand
© by Rick and Lori Howe  http://lace.lacefairy.com
 
 

 



 

 

Materials needed: 

 3 - ¼” x 3” threaded bolts with smooth head (stove bolts)
1 – ¼” x 4” threaded bolts with smooth head (stove bolts)
3 – 1/16” x ½” long Brass wood screws
2 –1/8” x 2” long Brass wood screws
4 – 1/8” x 3” steel wood screws
Drill bit for ¼” holes
Drill bit for 1/8” pilot holes

Wood: oak, ash, cherry, walnut, or maple

#1.  13 ½” x 1 ¾” x 1” (height adjuster)
#2.  16” x 1/ ½” x ½” (tilt arm)
#3. 15” x 1 ½” x ¾” (T arm)
#4.  15” x 1 ½” x ¾” (T front)
#5. 21 ¾” x 1 ¾” x 2 ¾” (main upright)
#6 16 ½” x 1 ¾” x 2” (front Base)
#7. 10 ¾” x 2” x 1/3/4” (Center board)
#8. 15” x 1 3/8” x 1/8” (lip)
#9. Dowel 1 1/8” x ¾” (spacer)
#10 dowel ¼” x ¾”long (pillow peg)

WOOD SHAPING

1. Piece #5 (main upright) – Using a router or saw blade, cut a groove 3/8” deep and 1 ¾” wide centered down the 2 ¾” side of board. 
2. Piece #6 (front of base).  – Cut a groove in the 2” width side centered 1 ¾” wide and 3/8” deep.
3. #7(centerboard) – set aside for later
4.     piece #1 – using a table saw, cut a groove 3/4” centered on one end of the board that is 2 ½” deep
 

DRILLING

Drill all holes ¼” unless otherwise specified.

1. Drill through cent of  # 9 (large dowel spacer)
2. Drill piece #1-  ½” from end (centered) and  from other end drill 2/ ½” and 7 more 1” apart
3. Drill piece #2 – lay flat and drill ¾” from one end.
4. Drill piece #3 – lay flat and drill a hole 3/4” from each end. On one of the ends elongate the hole to measure 7” long either with a router or successive holes. 
5. Turn piece # 3 on edge and 9” from the end with the single hole and drill a 1/2” deep hole to accept the small dowel peg.
6.  Lay price #4 flat and drill 2 - 1/8”countersunk pilot holes for the 2” wood screws. Place them ¼” down from each edge in the center of the board. (see picture)
7. Center  #4 on top of end of #3 forming a T. Use a pencil and mark the position of the holes in #4 onto end of #3. Then drill matching pilot holes into end of  #3 with 1/8” drill bit, 2 “ deep. Mark the edge that lines up on the side of #3 with the hole for the peg as the “top” and the other “bottom”.
8. Take #8 (lip) and lay flat on top of board #3. Offset it to overlap the side marked “bottom” forming a lip. (this will hold a roller or square pillow in place on the stand. The peg on the other side of the ” T” will hold a cookie pillow.
9. Take  #5 (main upright) drill through the side -4” from the top end. This will be for the 4” bolt. The on grooved side, drill another hole 3” from top. 
10. Dry fit the #7 centerboard into the bottom of the above main upright #5. Pre-drill two 1/8” holes thru both. One ¾” from bottom of #5 and the other 1 ½” from bottom.
11. Turn the #7 centerboard the other way around and dry fit the front base #6 over it and pre-drill as above through both boards.
 

  ROUNDING AND SANDING

1. To give a more decorative or finished look you can make bevel cuts on piece #1at the notched end and bevel 40 degrees at bottom end. 
2.  #2 piece – round both ends as shown
3. # 3 round off by sanding or notch off with saw, both corners at the end with the drilled hole. 
4. #5 notch about 30 degrees off corners of  both prongs on top       (see photo)
5. #6 bevel or round both ends. Photo shows them wrapped around but newer version has them beveled down as in drawing # 6. 
6. Sand all pieces and surfaces with 150 grit sandpaper and remove burs from all drilled holes. 
7. Sand again with 220 grit until nice and smooth
8. Dry fit all pieces and all bolts and adjust accordingly.
 

ASSEMBLY 

1. Beginnings with the base, attach upright to centerboard with two 3” screws (gluing not necessary).
2. Attach front base to centerboard with 2” screws.
3. Take #3 & #4 and attach 4 to 3 with two 2” wood screws.
4. Glue ¼” dowel in hole made for it on piece #4.
5. Attach #8 to #3 by screwing into predrilled holes with ½” brass screws. This piece should be offset by ¼” to form a lip on underside (opposite from side with small peg) (see drawing )
6. Stain to color of choice and varnish, or seal with tung oil. Dry 48 hours before using. If you want a extra smooth finish you can sand with very fine steel wool between 2 coats of varnish.
 

 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 

For Kenn van Dieren's folding lace stand directions click here