The design flows like water, woven into curved tendrilsand blossoms,
or interwoven in various ways.
Tombolo lace can be free, created without supports, using a single
thread to join sections. Works of remarkable breath are produced
with sewings holding the swirling design together.
The bobbins used are of various Materials (ivory, bone, metal, wood)
and dimensions varry depending on the wieght of the lace that
is desired.
An even more refined lace is the technique of the needlelace. With a single thread and a single needle, with a sequence of buttonhole sitches serve to form a base of tiny eyelets, forming designs of great complexity. The technique had great sucess in Venice.
There is then the embroidered trina or embroidery , executed, like that
one of point, on bottom of stoffa, on which the model is designed to follow.
It is worked with a single needle, that it comes carried to cross the stoffa
(that comes "tip" from which "point"), with points more or less radii,
dragging the thread slipped into" cruna ". For embroiderys of small dimensions
it is worked on chassis to circle, the tamburello, blocked from an external
ring in order to hold stiff the stoffa, on which the model is designed.
Jobs of greater dimensions come are executed on separate sections of the
stoffa, or on chassis of various type and more complex (like that one "to
stagge", elements rectilinear parallels in wood with fettucce in stoffa
on which come sewn the stoffa to decorate with the embroidery, than therefore
come stiff estate). The used types of point in the embroidery are infinites:
between more you notice, those calls broccatello, chain stitch, cross,
plate, grass, frangiato, nodini, shadow, past, full load, Rodi to you.
The technique
to tombolo is had finally, that it produces the peak tombolo and that is
most complex. It is famous from XVIII the century. The tombolo is used,
characteristic imbottito cylindrical pillow of stoffa (if of small dimensions
is "from travel"). On this the model in paper comes fixed, on which they
come aims the pins to you that characterize the nodes of base of the design.
On these points they come fixed, until the capocchia, the pins, on which
come legacies the nodes that serve in order to develop the job. This therefore
is executed interlacing a variety of threads, to braces, for every pin,
that they can be of several colors, held distinguished in how many characteristic
legacies to fuselli (the small ones fused) in wood. Muovendo the fuselli
organizes a design to interlaces of nodes. Wrapped on every fused it is
the necessary supply of thread until the term of the job. Famous they are
the peaks to tombolo of Burano, citizen on a island in the lagoon veneta.
For peaks, laces, trine use thread of every type, linen, silk, wool
but above all cotton. Jobs with spun mixed do not lack with threads in
silver or gold. The thread in gold is used with the broccato one, woven
embroidered of large lusso, found again also in the tombe longobarde (like
to Trezzo d' Adda).
The frange of the stoffe they come created knotting the extremities
of two or more threads of the warp, than therefore comes blocked. E' the
macramè , used for beadspreads, towels, stretches, carpets etc.
The technique of the peak or lace is much ancient one and was tied always
fashionable. It had therefore great fortune in ages, like that baroque
rinascimentale and (Xvi-xviii century) and in worlds, like France, in which
the feminine and male dressed ones were particularly sontuosi and decorate
to you.
Particularly common it was always the use of the peaks and laces in
ecclesiastical within, is for the liturgiche garments, than for those cerimoniali
of the faithfuls (equipments for babies or garments from spouse), than
for altar decorations (table cloths, cover-goblets, napkins etc). With
these functions they have a running use still today.
In the 1800's the working of the peak remained one economic activity
a lot important. It came executed to "job" in house (near the "merlettaie"),
for the sale or the dowry of the children (but ciascuna usually it produced
just" the equipment"). It represents "a vituous" activity, adapted to the
timorate children and the mothers of family, also in the social ranks it
elevates to you.
It endures, as a result of the changes of the fashion, a crisis in
the 1900's, only resisting in rural atmospheres set apart to you.
In Brianza the tradition of the embroidery before and the tombolo then
came saved in many centers, but above all to Cantù. To Biassono,
after the second world war, it came opened a true and own school (for wanting
of Suor Alceste) for the children, near the oratory. Most skillful "merlettaie"
or "ricamatrici" to the tombolo, some anchor today in activity were formed
therefore, with many other schools opened in several countries.
This is a translation of the page below:
http://www.museobiassono.it/Italiano/Mostre/Pizzi/
Poldi-Pezzoli
Museum
Via Manzoni, 12 20120, Milano, Italy
tel 02 79 63 34- 79 48 89 open Tue.-Sun.- 10-6pm