Lacemaking in Germany

Bobbin-lace in Germany

During the first half of the 16th century both needle and bobbin lace spread throughout Europe. Needle-lace, which progressed from cutwork, to Reticella and then Punto-in-Aria, probably came with traders/dealers and seamen from the East to Venice and then spread out over Europe. The origin of bobbin lace is still unknown but Aino Linnove from Finland argues in her doctoral thesis that its genisis was in Italy, and it then disseminated  east and west throughout  Europe. Meanwhile, there are others who say it started in Flanders. Nevertheless, the technique traveled around very quickly and reached the Erzgebirge in  Germany.


 Bobbin lace making was mentioned for the first time in Annaberg, Germany in 1561. There, Barbara Uttmann was intimately associated with the lace industry.  Born in 1514 in Enterlein, Saxonia, she moved with her family to Annaberg and she received the same education as her brothers, an extraordinary opportunaty at that time.  Uttmann later  became the wife of a rich silver mine owner, and when the productivity of the mine started to fall, she encouraged the populace to learn bobbin lace making. Although it is not known how Barbara Uttmann learned her craft, eventually women, children and even men did it for a living. Barbara tried to sell the lace herself -- and that was a problem. Her husband had died and at that time women weren't allowed to actively trade. However, she was able to obtain permission to trade locally, and after some years she became a respected member of Annaberg. She died in 1575. A Saxon lace trader erected a memorial to her in 1834 and all pictures we have of her today are from that time, so we don't know exactly how she looked.


bobbins from Hanover Germany

     

German Hooded Bobbins

 

Thanks to Ilske Thomsen

for the lace photos of antique German laces

 

for those who want more in depth information on lace in the different regions of Germany click here

   

Video above shows lacemakers in Erzgebirge, probably from Schwarzenberg, Germany

 

Lace terms translated:
 Læchergrund  means: "Hole stitch",  ground worked in one of the following:
- Half stitch, pin, half stitch or CT pin CT
- Cloth stitch, twist, pin, cloth stitch, twist or CTCT pin CTCT
- Dieppe ground TTCT pin TT
- Half stitch, twist, pin, half stitch, twist, or CTT pin CTT.

Halbschlag = half stitch  CT
Leinenschlag = linen stitch CTC
Ganzschlag = literally whole stitch, always CTCT

 Bobbins= klöppel
 Bobbin Chest =klöppelkiste
Bobbin Lace = Klöppelspitze
 Bobbin Tape Lace= Geklöppelte Bändchenspitze
Crochetted Bruges Lace  =Gehäkelte Bruges-Spitze
Crochetted Tape Lace  =Gehäkelte Bändchenspitze
Cut Embroidery Lace  =Lochstickerei-Spitze
Embroidery = Sticken
Finest Knitted Lace = Kunststricken
 Hemstitch = Hohlsaum
 Knitting  =Stricken
 Knotted Lace Macramé  =Geknüpfte Spitze - Makramé
Lace =Spitze
 Needle Point Lace  =Margaretenspitze
Sewing = Nähen
Tambour Work  =Tüllstickerei
Tambour Lace = Bestickte Tüllspitze
Tape Lace = Bändchenspitze
Tatting =Schiffchenspitze
Tatting =Occhi
 

 
Lace Museums and Schools of Germany 

Abenberg
Lace museum Abenberg

The museum is closed in January and February. It is open from 10.00 until 18.00
April - October: Tuesday - Sunday November - March: Thursday - Sunday.

Annaberg-Buchholz
Erzgebirgsmuseum Annaberg-Buchholz
(unrelatd site about the museum)
Große Kirchgasse 16 
09456 Annaberg-Buchholz
 Tel.:  (0 37 33) 2 34 97
Braunschweig
Museum Herzog Anton 
Ulrich, Museumstarasse, 1, 38100 Braunschweig.
This museum in Braunschweig is an art-museum but they have lots of laces and some of the museum-personal are fairly familiar with lace.
Celle
DAS DEUTSCHE STICKMUSTER-MUSEUM CELLE
Palais im Prinzengarten
D-29223 Celle
Tel. 05141-382626
http://home.t-online.de/home/Dalldorf/stickmus.htm
   
Heidelberg/Ziegelhausen
Textielmuseum Max Berk
Brahmsstrasse 8
Heidelberg/Ziegelhausen
Mindelheim Textilmuseum, Mindelheim, 
Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-16:00.
International textiles: gobelins, embroidery, woven and painted textiles, lace, clothing, 
Nordhalben Internationale Spitzensammlung, Nordhalben
Tel. +49 (9267) 375, Fax 1751
Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00 and 13:00-16:00, Sat & Sun 13:00-16:00
Lace from the 18th cantury onwards.
Offenbach/Main
the Deutsche Spitzengilde (German laceguild) which takes care of  laces. Three time a year a journal
"Spitzenblätter" is published to the members. The subscription is 45,00 DM/year (foreign: 72,00 DM/year). Contact   Frau Annemarie Lehnert,     Markwaldstraße 19        D-63073 Offenbach/Main        Tel. (069) 891336
Plauen Museum Plauener Spitze, Plauen, DE
Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, Sun by appointment
Tel. +49 (03741) 22 23 55
Embroidery, handmade and machine lace, technique of lacemaking. 
Schneeberg
Museum für bergmännische Volkskunst Schneeberg
Obere Zobelgasse 1 - 08289 Schneeberg 
Tel.:   (03772)  22446
Schwalm
The museum for Schwälmer Stickerei.
Museum der Schwalm
D-34613 Schwalmstadt-Ziegenhain
Schwarzenberg
Museum Schloß Schwarzenberg
Obere Schloßstraße 36 
 08340 Schwarzenberg 
Tel./Fax-Nr.:   03774/23389 
Uebach-Palenberg
Geschäftsstelle Deutscher Klöppelverband e. V.
That is the guild for Bobbin-Lacers
Schloss zweibrüggen, Zweibrüggen 40
D-52531 Übach-Palenberg.Tel. 02451-49985 Fax. 02451-49986, (Mo-Fr 8.00-12.00) 
DeutscherKloeppelverband@t-online.de
http://home.t-online.de/home/DeutscherKloeppelverband/index.htm
Flensborg Museum (Norther part of Germany - close to the Danish border)