Lacis
by Jeri Ames in Maine USA

As most of us realize, the old needle-made laces are labor intensive, and are 
rarely made today.  Lacis should not be confused with the filet lace 
"interpretations" copied by bobbins, crochet, and embroidery on fabric. 
Filet is an ancient lace technique, sometimes referred to as nun's work 
(because it was made in convents).

Lace history and lace identification books show wonderful examples of Lacis 
from as early as the 14th C.  One of the earliest references to this work is 
a cushion of network that St. Paul's Cathedral possessed in 1295, and three 
pieces of the same work were in use in Exeter Cathedral in 1327.

An absolutely charming old book is:  "Lacis (Filet Brode)" by Carita, 
published in London in 1908.  To my knowledge, it has not been the victim of 
a "cut and paste" job by a contemporary publisher.  For those interested, the 
preface and introduction are 10 pages, and as appropriate today as in 1908. 
Some comments from it are below:

"It is very difficult to find anyone in London who can give lessons in Lacis, 
and when the teacher is found the lessons are very expensive, and very many 
are required before one is able to work out a pattern alone..I have found so 
much difficulty in working according to the haphazard, and often incorrect, 
methods adopted by many teachers that I should like to save others from the 
same experience and at the same time open up to them a new source of interest 
and occupation...Among the books published both in England and on the 
Continent purporting to teach this old art of Lacis, I have not come across 
one that is of any real practical value."

Filet Lace frame click for detail

"Lacis is being revived (1908) on the Continent...It has been made since 
Medieval days in Italy, France, Spain and Portugal in enormous quantities in 
religious houses, as well as in every castle, palace and hall...There are 
many designs sold now that are a mere travesty of the old; the character has 
all been taken out of them, and ineffective additions have been made...It is 
quite impossible to get in England the thread for reproducing a lace 
approaching in the very least degree to the smoothness, gloss and fineness of 
any of the old laces...Why is old work so beautiful, and why does it afford 
never-ending wonderment and genuine delight, and why has it lasted for 
centuries with colours and texture unimpaired by the destroying hand of time? 
 Because the element of cheapness and modern hurry did not enter into the 
scheme -- because every part of it was prepared with loving care and 
unwearying trouble by people who were artists first and craftsmen 
afterwards...Examine the beautiful specimens of work handed down to us from 
long ago...See that all were made by hand -- not only the work itself, but 
all the materials that were used in producing it...The thread was spun by 
sensitive hands, not by an unfeeling machine."

"There was a species of netting made, 
principally in Sicily, with bobbins, somewhat in the way that pillow lace is 
made, although the twist is not quite the same.  As this netting had no knots 
it was never of so solid and resisting a character as hand-netting, and the 
work on its meshes bore more resemblance to embroidery."  A picture is shown 
in the book of a 2" x 1 1/2" square made by an expert lacemaker with bobbins. 
 It took 10 hours of steady work to make with very fine thread.

Carita offers these definitions:  "Filet" is the French word for a net, and 
"Lacis" for network - meaning in this case that the net has been ornamented 
with a design darned or applied upon its surface.  The ground consisted of a 
delicate network made by hand, using the same technique as was used for 
making coarser fish and garden nets.  On this ground the pattern was worked, 
usually by darning; the "point de toile" and the "point de reprise" being the 
stitches most generally employed.

All 143 pages of this book contain wonderful information, gracious language, 
black and white photographs, a chapter on flax, an account of nets that 
reaches back to antiquity, explanations of symbolism, terms and materials 
used, and working instructions (wonderful drawings) for every phase of 
Lacis-making.

 Disigni Filet - by Mani di Fata,
     volume 12  tulips/deer/roses and more. Small and large patterns.    43pgs 
       volume 15 knot/net/filet : 40pgs. 
       volumes 14 knot/net/filet ~ Beautiful cheriub design with chart and many other table top items. 40pgs.

Lace Net Weaving by Dontelle 

Harper's Bazar Netting Patterns by RebeccaHollenbaugh 

NETTING: FROM EARLY SOURCES ed. by Kliot, Jules and Kaethe,  Important sources from the late 19th and early 20th c. illustrating both free netting and  darned netting. Includes the complete PRISCILLA NETTING BOOK. 80 Pgs 

 Filet Lace Patterns by Pauline Knight,  With 131 photos. in b/w & 43 line drawings. 

Technique of Filet Lace by Pauline Knight,  ~ 

 FILET: Mappe  A collection by Kreiger.  ~ over 50 filet patterns including cupids/animal scenes/ children/ flowers/ borders/ and corners. 

FILET: Mappe  Additional by Kreiger.  ~ 
     filet patterns. All floral and geometric designs 

 Disigni Filet by Lavori, Femminili ~ 
 Knotting and Netting- The Art of Filet Work by Lisa  Melen, ~ 

  FILET-ARBEITEN by Niedner, Von Maria ~ Reproduction of 1922 text with full size loose patterns. Projects for netting and net embroidery (German text). 48pgs 

 RETE A ROSONI  Clear diagrams and photos of decorative netting patterns. Projects include table covers/ doilies and collars. 34pgs. 

 Prisclla Netting Book  by Belle Robinson, 

 ROPE-TWINE AND NET MAKING by Anthony Sanctuary,  -   Investigation of the ancient crafts of rope making and nets to industrial techniques. Hand and loom techniques of net making discussed. 32pgs 

HEMELS HANDWERKBOEK  van den Berk-Mertens, Marie ~ An illustrated guide to filet lace- this book contains beautiful examples of filet designs suitable for curtains, window ornaments and decoration. Clear illustrations are ease to follow. Includes over 50 charted patterns of florals, lot of cupids, animals and hunting scenes (Dutch text). 128pgs. 

Treasury of Designs for Lace Net Embroidery by Weiss, Rita