Materials needed:  3 - ¼ x 3 threaded bolts with smooth head (stove bolts)
1 ¼ x 4 threaded bolts with smooth head (stove bolts)
3 1/16 x ½ long Brass wood screws
2 1/8 x 2 long Brass wood screws
4 1/8 x 3 steel wood screws
Drill bit for ¼ holes
Drill bit for 1/8 pilot holes
Wood: oak, ash, cherry, walnut, or maple
#1. 13 ½ x 1 ¾ x 1 (height adjuster)
#2. 16 x 1/ ½ x ½ (tilt arm)
#3. 15 x 1 ½ x ¾ (T arm)
#4. 15 x 1 ½ x ¾ (T front)
#5. 21 ¾ x 1 ¾ x 2 ¾ (main upright)
#6 16 ½ x 1 ¾ x 2 (front Base)
#7. 10 ¾ x 2 x 1/3/4 (Center board)
#8. 15 x 1 3/8 x 1/8 (lip)
#9. Dowel 1 1/8 x ¾ (spacer)
#10 dowel ¼ x ¾long (pillow peg)
WOOD SHAPING
1. Piece #5 (main upright) Using a router or saw blade, cut a groove
3/8 deep and 1 ¾ wide centered down the 2 ¾ side of board.
2. Piece #6 (front of base). Cut a groove in the 2 width side
centered 1 ¾ wide and 3/8 deep.
3. #7(centerboard) set aside for later
4. piece #1 using a table saw, cut a groove
3/4 centered on one end of the board that is 2 ½ deep
DRILLING
Drill all holes ¼ unless otherwise specified.
1. Drill through cent of # 9 (large dowel spacer)
2. Drill piece #1- ½ from end (centered) and from
other end drill 2/ ½ and 7 more 1 apart
3. Drill piece #2 lay flat and drill ¾ from one end.
4. Drill piece #3 lay flat and drill a hole 3/4 from each end. On
one of the ends elongate the hole to measure 7 long either with a router
or successive holes.
5. Turn piece # 3 on edge and 9 from the end with the single hole
and drill a 1/2 deep hole to accept the small dowel peg.
6. Lay price #4 flat and drill 2 - 1/8countersunk pilot holes
for the 2 wood screws. Place them ¼ down from each edge in the
center of the board. (see picture)
7. Center #4 on top of end of #3 forming a T. Use a pencil and
mark the position of the holes in #4 onto end of #3. Then drill matching
pilot holes into end of #3 with 1/8 drill bit, 2 deep. Mark the
edge that lines up on the side of #3 with the hole for the peg as the top
and the other bottom.
8. Take #8 (lip) and lay flat on top of board #3. Offset it to overlap
the side marked bottom forming a lip. (this will hold a roller or square
pillow in place on the stand. The peg on the other side of the T will
hold a cookie pillow.
9. Take #5 (main upright) drill through the side -4 from the
top end. This will be for the 4 bolt. The on grooved side, drill another
hole 3 from top.
10. Dry fit the #7 centerboard into the bottom of the above main upright
#5. Pre-drill two 1/8 holes thru both. One ¾ from bottom of #5
and the other 1 ½ from bottom.
11. Turn the #7 centerboard the other way around and dry fit the front
base #6 over it and pre-drill as above through both boards.
ROUNDING AND SANDING
1. To give a more decorative or finished look you can make bevel cuts
on piece #1at the notched end and bevel 40 degrees at bottom end.
2. #2 piece round both ends as shown
3. # 3 round off by sanding or notch off with saw, both corners at
the end with the drilled hole.
4. #5 notch about 30 degrees off corners of both prongs on top
(see photo)
5. #6 bevel or round both ends. Photo shows them wrapped around but
newer version has them beveled down as in drawing # 6.
6. Sand all pieces and surfaces with 150 grit sandpaper and remove
burs from all drilled holes.
7. Sand again with 220 grit until nice and smooth
8. Dry fit all pieces and all bolts and adjust accordingly.
ASSEMBLY
1. Beginnings with the base, attach upright to centerboard with two
3 screws (gluing not necessary).
2. Attach front base to centerboard with 2 screws.
3. Take #3 & #4 and attach 4 to 3 with two 2 wood screws.
4. Glue ¼ dowel in hole made for it on piece #4.
5. Attach #8 to #3 by screwing into predrilled holes with ½
brass screws. This piece should be offset by ¼ to form a lip on
underside (opposite from side with small peg) (see drawing )
6. Stain to color of choice and varnish, or seal with tung oil. Dry
48 hours before using. If you want a extra smooth finish you can sand with
very fine steel wool between 2 coats of varnish.
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